A Taste of Hawaii with Mina’s Fish House
The Mina’s Fish House team from the Four Seasons at Ko Olina graced the Bay Area and made their way around several Michael Mina restaurants, bringing a taste of the island to local diners. I’m so glad I was able to experience the exclusive tasting menu by Executive Chef Garrick Mendoza and resident Fish Sommeliers Ryan Houser and Saui Matagiese at Michael Mina San Francisco. I’m not sure if the team has visited the Bay Area before, but I hope they return again next year because the menu is definitely a must for seafood lovers, like me, to experience.
What is a fish sommelier? Chef Mina created the unique position to bring education of local fish to the dining experience. Similar to how a wine sommelier is an expert in wines, the fish sommeliers are highly knowledgeable about the local fish including their unique flavor profiles and how it was taken into consideration in creating the final dish on the menu.
When I arrived for dinner, I grabbed a signature cocktail from the bar as the team was preparing our table. I don’t remember what the drink was (I believe it was gin-based), but it was delicious and served in a SPAM® can, topped with a cocktail umbrella.
The first item that came out was an amuse bouche of ahi tuna. The pieces were so fresh and had my taste buds craving more. I had to stop myself from drooling. Then out came the naan with the yogurt sauce, olive tapenade, and hummus for a bit of Mediterranean flare. The main courses that came next were each expertly paired with a different wine by Michael Mina Master Sommelier Jeremy Shanker.
- Course 1: Kauai Shrimp & Spot Prawn: crudo, crispy head, charcoal-broiled. Wine: Vincent Pinard Flores, Sancerre, Loire Valley, France 2018
- Course 2: Egg Yolk Tajarin – red abalone, Osetra caviar, yuzu crema. Wine: Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey, Bourgogne Blanc, France 2017
- Course 3: Ginger & Scallion-Steamed Kona Kamachi – black bean, baby bok choy, shoyu dashi. Wine: End of Nowhere Carbonic Zinfandel, Amador County, California 2016
- Course 4: Spice-Crusted Opakapaka – served with saffron basmati rice, braised rainbow chard. Wine: Mateus Nicolau de Almeida ‘Trans Douro Express’ Cima Corgo, Douro, Portugal 2018
- Course 5: Coconut Panna Cotta – guava granita, toasted macademia, fresh lilikoi. Wine: Domaine Lapeyre, Jurancon, Southwest France 2018
All of the dishes were delicious, but my favorites were the egg yolk tajarin and spice-crusted Opakapaka (pink snapper). The pasta and sauce came together so perfectly with the uni and caviar; I’m drooling just thinking about it. I tried to slow how quickly I was eating it because I knew I was going to be sad when it was gone… I don’t think I’ve ever had Opakapaka; the fish was meatier, yet flaky. The spice crust was off the charts!
By the end of the meal, I was quite stuffed, but my seafood cravings were satisfied. I feel like this dinner was a tease…now I’m dying to revisit Oahu. Next time, I’ll definitely have to make my way to Ko Olina to dine at Mina’s Fish House. The team didn’t let us leave the table empty handed. After clearing the table, they left us each with a wooden box that contained a vial of salt that is harvested in the traditional method from a family-owned salt pond on the island!
I’ve been to Oahu once in 2018 and after this dinner, I’m dying to return to the island for the fresh seafood and diverse cuisine; there’s a lot I didn’t get around to trying last time. I thought the dishes at the dinner were amazing and I was happy to see some Eastern Asian influence on one of the dishes, embodying the diverse cultures of the island. I can only imagine what the meals are like at the restaurant where the fish is fresh from the market in Honolulu or directly off a fisherman’s boat and the produce is fresh from a local farm!
